Mister Amarone, the way Dott. Sandro Boscaini, owner of Masi Agricola, is described by Kate Singleton in the book, Amarone The making of an Italian Wine Phenomenon, was in Malta as the guest of his local representative, Attard & Co (Foodstuffs) Ltd.
Dott. Boscaini is very passionate about the land where his vines grow: ‘To understand what Amarone really represents you have to have been born in Valpolicella. Amarone is more than just a wine or a technique; it’s a philosophy, an art, a lifetime companion,” he says.
After a day of meetings during which Dott Boscaini briefed Attard & Co. (Foodstuffs) Ltd staff on the latest developments within his family business, he was the guest of honour at a Wine & Dine Event at Rebekah’s Restaurant in Mellieha.
For starters there were canapés of cured salmon in dill, toasted crouton, fresh local goats’ cheese, almonds and cress. These were accompanied by Levarie Soave, one of the classics of the great Veronese tradition, made by Masi in a contemporary style. This is an evergreen white wine, delicate and original, made with the traditional grapes of the Levarie Soave Classico region – Garganega and Trebbiano – in an area with volcanic soil and a mild climate.
This was followed by a marinated king prawn concasse, grilled sea bass fillet, mandarin gel and a lime and extra virgin olive oil dressing. This was accompanied by Masianico Pinot Grigio, a fresh white wine, aromatic and fruity in style; the unmistakable result of combining Pinot Grigio delle Venezie with the Appassimento technique, Masi’s speciality. A ‘Supervenetian’ with great style, and a worthy ‘brother’ to the famous red wine, Campofiorin, which accompanied the next course.
The next course was tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, baby asparagus, cashew nuts, grilled honey and mustard sausage. Campofiorin is Masi’s original ‘Supervenetian’ from 1964 – recognised internationally as the creator of a new category for wines from the Veneto inspired by the technique of making Amarone.
Its production has been described by no less than Hugh Johnson, the wine guru, as having an “ingenious technique”. This is a rich, smooth and velvety wine that combines simplicity and grace with strength and majesty.
The main course consisted of stuffed boneless duck with venison, confit venison neck and potato Dauphinoise, grilled vegetable terrine, buttered French beans, apricot compote and blackberries niepoort jus. This was accompanied by Riserva CostaSera – proud, majestic, complex and exuberant, a special cru version of Masi’s gentle giant, Costasera. This is a benchmark for the Amarone category, which, together with Barolo and Brunello, makes up the aristocracy of the Italian wine world.
Dessert, a Tanzania dark chocolate tart, toffee pannacotta and fig samosa with raspberry sauce, and coffee was served with Casal dei Ronchi, a noble, traditional, sweet dessert red wine from the Valpolicella region. This Recioto comes from the ancient Casal dei Ronchi vineyard on the Possessioni Serego Alighieri estate.
Made from the classic blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, it is laid out for the winter to rest on bamboo racks in drying lofts during the Appassimento process. The resulting wine is highly aromatic, fruity and smooth.
For more information about Masi Agricola please visit www.masi.it/eng/company/family.